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“米道老好”的嘉兴早点(Jiaxing traditional local breakfast touches the heart)
2019-10-21 00:54

  1. Zongzi粽子

摄影记者 田建明

  “嘉兴粽子”是以中国东部浙江省城市“嘉兴”命名,它是中国大陆最受欢迎的粽子。粽子是一种用竹叶或芦苇叶包成的金字塔形或长锥形的裹馅类食物,具有一种独特的香味。一般说来,粽子分为两类。一种是南方流行的咸粽子,另一种是北方的甜粽子。嘉兴粽子以其招牌猪肉粽闻名天下,既不会太甜也不过咸。先将肥猪肉水煮几个小时,然后入锅油炸,接下来与其它馅料混搭,这就使得粽子入口味香而不油腻。嘉兴老字号“五方斋”粽子由精选的糯米和各种馅料制作而成,如五花肉、咸蛋黄和红枣。有时也以甜豆沙,枣子和栗子为粽馅。

  Jiaxing zongzi, named after the city Jiaxing in east China's Zhejiang province, is the most sought-after kind of zongzi on the Chinese mainland. Zongzi is a kind of rice dumpling wrapped in bamboo or reed leaves to form a pyramid or thin elongated cone, which has a unique fragrance. Generally speaking, zongzi is divided into two categories, salty zongzi which is popular in South China, and the sweet ones in North China. Jiaxing zongzi is well known for its typical filling of marinated pork which is neither too salty nor too sweet. Fat meat, fried in oil after being boiled for several hours, is usually mixed in with the fillings, which makes the zongzi crispy but not greasy. In Jiaxing, the time-honored brand Wufangzhai is exquisitely made with well-chosen sticky rice and various fillings such as pork tenderloins and salty egg yolks. Sometimes it is also filled with sweet bean paste, red dates and chestnuts.


  2. Dabing大饼

摄影记者 闻人达

  大饼也被称为中国煎饼,是一种传统的烘焙糕点,在不同地区略有所不同。在嘉兴,大饼由小苏打和面粉做成的面团,在撒上一些芝麻烘焙制成。酥香飘来,美味入心。嘉兴“老王大饼”的猪肉梅干菜颇受本地食客的青睐。

  Also known as Chinese pancake, dabing is a traditional baked pastry prepared differently depending on the region. Here in Jiaxing, doughs made of baking soda and flour are shaped into a dabing, sprinkled with some sesame and then baked. Flavors come in savory. Some of local residents prefer meat and preserved vegetable as the filling, and the most popular is Lao Wang’s in Jiaxing.


  3. Youtiao油条

摄影记者 闻人达

  油条,是一种长条形状内空的油炸面食。在中国,可追溯到唐代以前。油条在不同地区其名称也有别。嘉兴本地制作油条的方法是把面粉,苏打,盐和酵母混合制成面团,再切成条状,入锅油炸至金黄色。利用发酵过程中产生的二氧化碳使面团变得蓬松,口感酥脆且有韧劲。油条可以和大饼一起吃,也可以作为粥的配食。

  Youtiao, is a long golden and deep-fried dough stick. In China, it dates back to the 5th century and is called with different names depending on the region. In Jiaxing, doughs made of flour, backing soda, salt and yeast are cut into strips and then deep fried to golden brown. Carbon dioxide generated during the ferment process makes the strip fluffy, and the frying process makes the final product crunchy. It can be eaten with dabing or as a side dish to porridge.


  4. Shaomai烧卖

摄影记者 闻人达

  烧卖是一种美味且营养丰富的早点。它看起来像“小笼包”,但这两种美食之间还是有一定区别。嘉兴烧卖的馅料主要由猪肉、皮冻和姜末构成。视季节而定,会在原有馅料的基础上添加笋或虾仁。蒸熟后,半透明的面皮诱惑满满,馅料入口更是鲜美至极。

  Shaomai is a kind of delicious and nutritious food. It looks like “mini steamed soupy buns”, but there is still a difference between them. The fillings of Jiaxing Shaomai are made of pork, bruised ginger and pigskin jelly. Other possible fillings include shrimp, or bamboo shoot, depending on the season. When steamed, the buns look very cute with semi-transparent skins. The filling taste very delicious.


  5 Mini Wonton小馄饨

摄影记者 闻人达

  嘉兴小馄饨是起源于长三角的一种裹馅类面食。街头巷尾各色馄饨店使其扮演着同米饭或面条一样的主食角色。当地人爱将小馄饨作为早餐,也会在晚上来一碗。小馄饨由面皮裹入一小块猪肉馅制成,薄如纸细滑如绸的馄饨皮对于食客而言具有超强的吸引力。出锅的小馄饨鲜美可口,辅以蛋饼丝、胡椒粉和醋,具有一种独特的味道,倍受本地食客宠爱。

  Jiaxing mini wonton is a type of dumpling originating in Yangtze River delta. Mini wontons entered dedicated restaurants, and became a staple like noodles, or rice. Locals have them not only for breakfast but also supper. They are made with flour wrapper and crumpled around a tiny nub of pork. The wrapper is thin as paper and smooth as silk. Without question, it’s a great attraction for diners. The mini wontons from the stockpot are nice, and have a distinctive flavor with omelets into stripes, pepper and vinegar, no wonder welcomed by locals.


  6.Deboned Mutton Noodles拆骨羊肉面

摄影记者 闻人达

  面条对于中国人来说有着特殊的含义,寓以健康长寿之意。拆骨羊肉面在嘉兴饮食文化中具有悠久的历史,街头巷尾的羊肉面店是嘉兴人早餐必选之一。做这碗面在羊肉的选择上颇有讲究,需肤薄而细腻,肉质鲜嫩且脂肪含量低的上等羊肉。因羊肉富含滋补成分,吃羊肉还可以暖身并增强血液循环,是江南湿寒天气的佳选食材。调料加入汤锅中精心熬制,羊肉酥软溢香, 汤味鲜美醇厚,面条吸收肉汤之精华。一碗面里主要有去骨羊肉,葱末和蒜泥。话说最正宗的拆骨羊肉面还属乌镇这一碗。面条滑爽有劲道,酱汁香浓味美,令人食欲大增。

  For Chinese people, noodles have a special meaning. The better the wishes for a long and healthy life. Deboned mutton noodles, which has a long history in Jiaxing food culture, is a typical breakfast dish for locals and often sold in residential areas. The choice of mutton for this dish is very fastidious. The mutton comes from a well-chosen kind of sheep which has thin and smooth skin. It is not only soft but also low-fat. The local mutton is considered an ingredient full of tonic properties. It’s the best choice for when the weather is damp and cold. The more, eating mutton warms the body and gets the blood circulating. The soup is cooked with special care with heavy seasoning. The soup tastes mellow and the mutton soft, and noodles absorbs the aroma and taste. It consists of chunks of stewed deboned mutton, garlic and scallions served over noodles. The noodles are the most genuine you can find Wuzhen. Being slippery and elastic and the sauce strong and fragrant, it allures the appetite.

来源: 作者:刘佳 翻译:刘佳 摄影记者:田建明 闻人达 编辑:李丹 李源 责任编辑:邓钰路

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